Potbellied pig food; Why it matters

Mazuri Piglet/youth Food

Once again we are receiving a great number of e-mail's about what veggies to give your pig(s). This veggie Vs, that veggie. So once again we thought it might be time to reiterate that these pigs are Omnivore not Herbivore. While vegetables and fruits make great treats they are not nutritionally sound for complete diet or even half a diet.
Vegetables and fruits do not contain the protein that your pig needs nor do they contain all the other things incorporated into a well-made pig chow that keeps your pig healthy.

Part of this idea of feeding veggies and fruits seems to be based on what we would like to think they eat on their own. Left to fend for themselves they would be eating worms, small animals and even dead animals along with the grass and seeds and nuts that they find.
In this manner they adjust their own protein needs with the roughage and fiber that they know is important to them. 

Well, great news folks! That's why we have good pig chows? Many years of development, millions of dollars in research facilities, many years of testing have gone in to what it takes to keep a pig happy and healthy.

Mazuri Active Adult food

There is NO substitute for a well-made pig chow in your pigs diet. This is what the chow was developed for...as a complete diet for the pig!
Here at the Sanctuary when a pig is getting too heavy we cut back on his feed, but we NEVER completely cut out the pig chow. That pig chow is and should always be the foremost and most important part of the pigs diet.
We have over eighty pigs here now at the sanctuary and they have never had anything but a well balanced pig chow for their main diet. One would have to think that if veggies and fruits were necessary to keep them healthy that we wouldn't have half the herd that are now geriatric and very healthy in their old age. Some are fifteen and sixteen years old.
Another humorous thought is how long would it take us to cut up enough veggies and fruits to feed eighty pigs daily? We would have to start the day before and even if we felt like digging up a bunch of grub worms to throw in, it still wouldn't be a balanced diet like the pig chow.
While my opinion on using veggies as a food source is a negative thing there isn't any reason that it can't be used for a treat or when it's available and you want to give them a bite.

Mazuri Elder Food

Our house pets may see veggies when we are cleaning them for us, but it is in moderation. What we are saying is that a pig that is on a well-balanced, well made pig chow can live it's whole life without ever having a veggie or fruit an still be a healthy happy animal. With that in mind it would stand to reason that the veggies and fruits should be considered as a treat and not as a food.
We receive lots of e-mail's on what veggies and fruits are good for pigs. Not that you are aware of how we feel about feeding veggies and fruits it will come as no surprise that as far as we can tell, it makes no difference.
Some veggies cause more gas than others like broccoli tends to do. You are the one that has to live in the house with your pig so if that doesn't concern you than no problem.
Personally we feel that too much gas is not good for the pig so we don't feed it at all. Cucumbers are another one that we stay away from for that reason.
There is much discussion over types of lettuce fed to the pigs. Who cares if one is deemed more nutritious than the other? If our pig is on a good complete pig chow than it really doesn't matter what type lettuce you give them in moderation as a treat.
It is our opinion that we can not second guess all the years of research and testing done by professionals and scientists that go into making a well balanced complete pig chow. They did the work and we reap the benefits. That's as it should be. 

My personal favorite

Mazuri Potbellied Pig Food

I prefer Mazuri Potbellied pig food (see picture above). They come in 20lb bags of pellets, and vary in Youth, Active Adult, and Elder. Each supply what the pig will need during that stage of life!

Ear Care for Potbellied Pigs

There has been a steady influx of problem pigs and ears in my e-mail lately. Inner ear infections, yeast infections, liquids in the ear, etc. I am going to try and address this problem the best way I know how.

IF YOU NEVER PUT ANYTHING DOWN IN THAT EAR,
YOUR CHANCE OF PROBLEMS ARE A LOT LESS!!!! 
 
When we clean ears its only as far as the fingertip will go with a damp cloth or cotton ball. That stuff that drives you crazy that is down deep is what keeps the water out of your pig’s ears when he is in his pool, or for outside pigs his mud hole.
We found this by trial and error over the years and the pigs that go into vets yearly for checkups and teeth and feet seem to be the ones that are having a problem because people want their ears cleaned while they are there. This is not a dog, it is a pig, who has many means of protecting itself from its environment without our help.
Most of the problems I hear from are pigs that have liquids squirted in the ear canal. This can lead to a yeast infection that is hard to clear up. It can also lead to inner ear infections that can cause major problems for the pig and its owner. Both of these problems show symptoms of tilted head and lack of coordination.
My vet and I agree that putting any liquid in a pigs ear for cleaning purposes may not be a good thing so we just DO NOT DO IT. You may have to ask your vet to please NOT clean the ears when you take the pig in for his checkups. Or you can say NO liquids in the ear itself just a damp cloth as far as the finger will go into the ear.
This advice has served the 73 pigs that live here quite well and we don’t have ear problems because we don’t cause ear problems.

Copyrighted by Phyllis Battoe - All Rights Reserved

Pneumonia and colds in Potbellied pigs

Question: How long can I leave my house pig outside for potty duty in the winter time?

When it really gets dead of winter we only leave them out long enough to do their business and bring them back in again....but then they are always banging at the door to come in anyway!

The reason we don't leave them out long is that they are house pigs and after all night at one temperature we don't want them to have to try to acclimate to the cold temp than back to the warm again. 

Drastic changes of temperature can cause respiratory problems like pneumonia. Going out to potty is OK but, we don't like them out there for more than an hour because of the change in temp and the body trying to adjust to it. Pigs that are kept outside all the time get their body temp regulated to that....the same holds true for the indoor house pigs.

Pneumonia: We put this out every year but maybe for new people we should do it again. Pig's don't usually show many symptoms of pneumonia. They don't cough etc. They quit eating!! But most don't even show the labored breathing until it becomes life threatening.

IF A PIG QUITS EATING YOU HAVE A PROBLEM! IF A PIG STARTS PICKING AT HIS FOOD...YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!

A pig is not like a dog...pig's love to eat and they don't get tired of the same diet...they don't get bored with food...they don't quit eating with the
idea of getting something better.  

IF A PIG DOESN'T EAT THERE IS A PROBLEM!

There are other illness that might cause this, but this time of the year, on an average age pig, pneumonia is the most common reason. Most Pneumonia's are easily fixed if you catch it EARLY and start treatment as soon as possible.

Seek vet help right away and explain that you think the pig has pneumonia. If it happens to be a weekend or holiday and no vet can be reached we put ours on any antibiotic we have here until the vet can be reached. This can be most of the antibiotics that humans have taken for infections etc. that might be in your home. Most people have Ampicillins or Amoxycillins on hand. If your on good terms with your vet you might ask for just a few of these pills to keep on hand for this kind of emergency use. 

As soon as that pig refuses his feed we start treatment until we can get to the vet. If the pig isn't interested in food at all put the antibiotic in a syringe with a little liquid and squirt it into his mouth. If a pig is completely down...and this is something that does happen with some pneumonia's ....from the time you feed in the morning and they are fine... till that night they can be completely down. 

We use the injectable antibiotics that you can buy at the farm or feed store if the vet isn't readily available. (I know someone is going to say they couldn't give a shot...you can and will if that's what it takes to save your pig.

Their recovery can be just as rapid as the time it took them to go down. Some are up and eating by the next morning, but then they go on oral meds for five to seven days. It's just very important that you start treatment as soon as possible and get to the vet as soon as you are able.

This is also where that thermometer comes in handy. Take his temp so you can tell the vet he is running a fever. Normal temp for a pot is 99 to 101 ANYTHING over that is a fever. Farm pigs are normal at 102. For the pots Pneumonia temps are usually in the 102 to 104 at the very beginning. The key to quick and complete recovery is quick treatment before the lungs are compromised.

Copyrighted by Phyllis Battoe - All Rights Reserved

Signs of Sickness in Potbellied Pigs

As with other animals, potbellied pigs can’t tell us
when they’re sick, so it’s up to us to notice the signs
of health or illness. As you get to know your pig, you’ll
learn to recognize when your pig is feeling good and
when she’s feeling under the weather. Here are some
general things that may indicate signs of sickness:

• Loss of appetite (most pigs love to eat, so this
is often a sign that something’s wrong)

• Hair standing on end all over the pig’s body,
patchy hair loss, excessive itching

• Change in mood (such as increased
grumpiness) or lethargy


• Pig standing with his back hunched

• Absence of or difficulty urinating/defecating;
very dark, concentrated urine

• Limping or difficulty walking

• Discolored vaginal discharge

• Hemorrhage from eyes, ears, nose, rectum, vulva
• Coughing or nasal discharge

• High temperature (103 and up)

• Elevated respiration

Pigs can have a variety of health issues, so do your homework and research every
aspect of how to care for them. Health issues can be as simple as an ear infection or
as complicated as cancer. The most common health problems in potbellied pigs are
respiratory troubles and constipation. Wounds from fights with other pigs, dog attacks or
general injuries need to be assessed and tended to.
Arthritis is common in older pigs. It can result from a variety of causes, such as a pig
being overweight at one point or lack of adequate exercise. Unless a pig is in poor
physical condition, mild exercise will be beneficial. Try little walks several times a day.
Massage followed by range-of-motion exercises can help, too. You might also want to try
holistic care and supplements to ease the pain from arthritis. If your pig seems to be in a
lot of pain, talk to your veterinarian.

Energy Boost/Iron Boost for Goats and Sheep

• 1 part Corn Oil (do not substitute with canola or vegetable oil)
• 1 part Molasses
• 1 part Kayro Syrup

Use this when a goat is “off.” It will provide quick energy and iron.

Electrolyte Formula's

Homemade Electrolyte Formula #1

• 1 package canning pectin
• 2 tsp low sodium salt
• 2 tsp baking soda
• 1 beef bouillon cube dissolved in 200mls (approx 6.5oz) water
• Add water to make 2.5 liters of solution

Homemade Electrolyte Formula #2

• 2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 4oz white corn syrup
• Add water to make 4.5 liters of solution

Homemade Electrolyte Formula #3 **(Preferred by Desert Viking Ranch)**

• 2 tsp salt
• 2 tsp baking soda
• 1TBSP molasses
• 1/2oz strong coffee
• Add water to make 2.5 liters of solution

 
Electrolyte Administration to Kids: Give the above formula according to goat’s weight and percentage of fluid loss.

1. First 24 hours: 100% Solution
2. 24-48 hours: 50% solution, 50% milk
3. 48-72 hours: 25% solution, 75% milk
4. 72 hours +: 100% milk (if no scours symptoms show – otherwise 25% solution, 75% milk)

Homemade recipe for Oatmeal Molasses Cookies (Goat Treats)

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup shortening
• 1 egg
• 1/2 cup molasses
• 2 cups sifted flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2 cups quick-cooking oats

Cream sugar and shortening together in a large mixing bowl. Add egg and molasses; beat well. Add sifted dry ingredients and mix well. Add vanilla then stir in oatmeal. Drop from teaspoon onto greased baking sheet. Bake at 375° for 10 to 12 minutes, until done.
Makes about 4 dozen oatmeal molasses cookies.